How to Master Underpainting: The Mary Phillips Technique
Quick answer: Underpainting means applying contour, blush and highlight before your foundation, then blending a light layer of foundation over the top. The colour shows through softly, so your face looks naturally sculpted rather than heavily made up. You need a contour shade, a highlighter and a light, blendable foundation such as Thin Lizzy Flawless Complexion Liquid Foundation.
Underpainting borrows an idea from oil painting. Artists lay down light and shadow first, then paint over it, so the finished picture has depth. In makeup, the same idea flips the usual order: your sculpting goes on first and your foundation goes on last. The result is soft, diffused definition that looks like your own skin, just a little more lifted.
What Is Underpainting?
The technique was popularised by celebrity makeup artist Mary Phillips, and it's now one of the most talked-about ways to sculpt the face. (Thin Lizzy isn't connected with Mary Phillips; we simply like the technique.) Instead of blending contour and blush on top of foundation, you place them on bare, prepped skin, then press a thin layer of foundation over everything. Because the foundation softens the edges, it's very forgiving, which makes it a good choice if harsh contour lines have put you off in the past.
Does Underpainting Work on Mature Skin?
Yes, and it can be especially flattering. Using less foundation and letting colour glow through from underneath avoids the heavy, layered look that can settle into fine lines. The key is to keep every layer thin, to press rather than drag, and to choose light, blendable textures.
Cream or Powder Products?
The classic version uses cream contour and blush, because creams melt together easily under foundation. You can also underpaint with powder products. Apply them over a thin layer of primer, keep them light, and press your foundation on with a damp sponge rather than buffing hard, so the powder stays in place.
Our Picks
6in1 Professional Face Powder Compact
Best for: soft contour and warmth that builds gradually.
One compact you can use as a contour, bronzer, blush, face framer, eyeshadow and lip colour. Choose light or dark: the dark shade works well for contour on most skin tones. You can build up the colour gradually, so it's hard to get it wrong, and it gives skin a healthy-looking glow.
- Six uses in one mirrored compact
- Choose light or dark
- Builds gradually for a natural look
Luminous Light Highlighter Trio
Best for: adding glow to the high points of your face.
A baked highlighter with silky, ultra-fine pigments and light-diffusing particles that give skin a radiant, lit-from-within glow. The mirrored palette holds three shades, Rose Gold, Champagne and Pearl, so there's one to suit every skin tone. For a stronger glow, apply it with a damp brush or sponge.
- Three shades in one palette
- Buildable and blendable
- Soft glow or stronger shimmer
Flawless Complexion Liquid Foundation
Best for: a thin, even layer that lets your sculpting show through.
This liquid-to-powder formula feels soft and weightless, helps blur the look of fine lines, minimises the appearance of pores and evens out skin tone. A little goes a long way, which is exactly what underpainting needs: just enough to soften the colour underneath.
- Liquid-to-powder formula
- Feels soft and weightless
- Buildable, long-lasting finish
- 33 shades, with a Colour Match chart
How to Do Underpainting, Step by Step
- Prep your skin: cleanse and moisturise, and give your skincare a minute to sink in. In the morning, apply a separate sunscreen as your last skincare step.
- Prime: smooth on a thin layer of Perfectly Primed Primer to give your products an even surface to grip.
- Contour: place your contour shade where you want shadow, then blend it out with a large, fluffy brush until there are no hard edges.
- Blush: tap blush onto the tops of your cheekbones and blend up towards your temples.
- Highlight: add highlighter to the tops of your cheekbones, the bridge of your nose, the centre of your forehead and your chin.
- Foundation: put a small amount of foundation on a damp Blending Sponge and press it lightly over your whole face. Use less over the sculpted areas so the colour shows through.
- Check and adjust: step back from the mirror. If the contour has disappeared, tap a little more on top and blend; if it looks strong, press over it with the sponge.
- Finish: add mascara and a creamy lip colour, and set your T-zone lightly with powder if you need to.
Where to Place Contour for Your Face Shape
- Round faces: contour along the sides of the forehead and under the cheekbones.
- Oval faces: keep it light, just under the cheekbones and at the temples.
- Square faces: soften the jawline corners and the sides of the forehead.
- Long faces: add a little contour along the hairline and under the chin.
Want to fine-tune each step? See our guides to how to apply primer, choosing your blush shade and choosing makeup brushes.
What Customers Say
"I love this powder it goes on so well and makes me feel amazing. I have used the light and dark which is awesome."
Kay S., verified customer (6in1 Professional Face Powder Compact)
"Nice to have the 3 choices for different effects. All are still very natural looking with a lovely fresh effect."
Jenny D., Thin Lizzy customer (Luminous Light Highlighter Trio)
"Beautiful silky foundation light and easily blended"
Cherie M., verified customer (Flawless Complexion Liquid Foundation)
Read all Flawless Complexion Liquid Foundation reviews →
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the Mary Phillips underpainting technique?
It's a way of sculpting the face by applying contour, blush and highlight before foundation, then blending a light layer of foundation over the top so the colour looks soft and natural.
Do you put foundation over contour when underpainting?
Yes. That's the whole idea. Press a thin layer of foundation over your sculpting with a damp sponge, using less on the contoured areas so they still show through.
Can I underpaint with powder products?
Yes. Apply powder contour and highlighter over a thin layer of primer, then press, rather than buff, your foundation on top so the powder stays where you placed it.
Is underpainting good for beginners?
It's one of the more forgiving ways to contour, because the foundation softens any harsh edges. Start with very little product and build up.
How do I find my foundation shade?
Use our Colour Match tool to find your shade. If it's not quite right, our Colour Swap Guarantee has you covered.
Can I buy Thin Lizzy makeup in stores?
Yes. Thin Lizzy is available at Farmers, Life Pharmacy, Chemist Warehouse and Unichem stores across New Zealand. The range can vary by store, so the easiest way to get the full range, bundles and online deals is to shop online. See our FAQ page for stockist details.
Looking for a deal? Many of our best sellers are available in bundle offers from time to time. See our current Bundle Offers →
Final Thoughts
Underpainting is simply a change of order: sculpt first, then soften with a thin layer of foundation. Keep every layer light, press rather than rub, and you'll get soft, natural-looking definition that suits every age.
