How to Find the Perfect Eyebrow Shape for Your Face
Quick answer: The most flattering eyebrow shape balances your face shape. Round faces suit a higher, more angled arch; oval faces suit a soft, natural arch; heart-shaped faces suit softly rounded brows; square faces suit a curved arch that softens the jaw; and longer faces suit a flatter brow with a gentle curve. Start with your natural shape, tidy stray hairs and fill gaps with light, hair-like strokes using a soft pencil such as the Thin Lizzy Duo Eye & Brow Pencil.
Brows frame your whole face. The right shape can make your eyes look brighter and more open, balance a strong jaw or a wide forehead, and pull your makeup together without any extra effort. The wrong shape, often the result of years of over-plucking or following a trend, can make you look tired or constantly surprised. The good news is that finding your best brow shape is mostly about working out your face shape and then making small, careful changes.
How Do I Work Out My Face Shape?
Pull your hair back, stand in front of a mirror in good, even light and look at the width of your forehead, cheekbones and jaw, and at how long your face is compared with how wide it is.
- Round: your face is about as wide as it is long, with soft curves and no strong angles.
- Oval: your face is longer than it is wide, with balanced proportions and a gently rounded jaw.
- Heart: your forehead is the widest part, and your face narrows to a pointed chin.
- Square: your forehead, cheekbones and jaw are a similar width, with an angular jawline.
- Long or rectangle: your face is noticeably longer than it is wide, with a straight forehead and jaw.
Which Eyebrow Shape Suits My Face?
- Round face: aim for a higher arch with a little angle. It adds length and structure and stops the face looking even rounder. Avoid very round, curved brows.
- Oval face: you can wear most shapes. A soft, natural arch of medium thickness keeps things balanced. Avoid very sharp angles that fight your natural shape.
- Heart-shaped face: softly rounded brows draw attention to your eyes and balance a narrower chin. Keep the thickness medium so the forehead doesn't look heavier.
- Square face: a curved, gently arched brow softens a strong jawline. Avoid flat or very straight brows, which repeat the angles of the jaw.
- Long face: a flatter brow with only a slight curve adds horizontal width and makes the face look shorter. Avoid high, dramatic arches.
Where Should My Eyebrows Start, Arch and End?
Whatever your face shape, three simple guide points help keep your brows in proportion. Hold a pencil straight up against the side of your nose: where it meets the brow is where your brow should start. Angle the pencil from the side of your nose across the centre of your eye: that is roughly where your arch should peak. Then angle it from the side of your nose to the outer corner of your eye: that is where your brow should end. Mark each point lightly with a pencil before you tidy or fill anything.
How Brows Change as We Get Older
Brows often become thinner, lighter and a little patchier over the years, and the tail end can fade first. Hairs can also grow longer and more wiry. That makes soft, gentle definition more flattering than heavy, block-filled brows. Choose a pencil a shade lighter than you might think, fill only the sparse areas and keep the front of the brow softer than the tail.
Our Picks
Duo Eye & Brow Pencil
Best for: soft, natural-looking definition for brows and eyes in one pencil.
A two-in-one pencil with rich brown on one end and deep black on the other, so you can fill your brows and line your eyes with the same pencil. The long-wearing formula feels gentle on skin, suits contact lens wearers and washes off easily with cleanser or eye makeup remover.
- Brown and black in one pencil
- Long-wearing formula
- Suitable for contact lens wearers
- Washes off easily
Perfect Brows Hair Remover
Best for: quick, at-home tidying of stray brow hairs between salon visits.
A small, handbag-sized brow trimmer that helps you shape and groom your brows quickly, with no wax or mess. The 18k gold-plated head is designed to reach even the smallest areas, and a built-in light helps you see exactly what you're doing.
- 18k gold-plated head
- Built-in light for visibility
- Lightweight and portable
- Mess-free, no wax or strips
How to Shape and Fill Your Brows: Step by Step
- Brush them up: comb your brows upwards with a clean spoolie so you can see their natural shape and any long hairs.
- Map your shape: use the start, arch and end guide points above, and lightly mark them with your pencil.
- Tidy, don't overhaul: remove only the stray hairs outside your mapped shape, mostly underneath the brow. Work slowly and step back from the mirror often.
- Fill with short strokes: use light, feathery, hair-like strokes in the direction your hairs grow, focusing on gaps and the tail.
- Keep the front soft: use the lightest touch at the start of the brow so it doesn't look drawn on.
- Blend: brush through again with the spoolie to soften any harsh lines.
- Set: finish with a clear or tinted brow gel if you like, to keep hairs in place all day.
Common Brow Mistakes to Avoid
- Over-plucking: it's easy to take too much. Remove a few hairs at a time and check both sides.
- Ignoring your natural shape: working with the brows you have looks more natural than drawing a completely new shape.
- Going too dark: very dark brows can look harsh, especially as hair and skin colouring soften with age.
- Mismatched brows: brows are sisters, not twins, but aim for a similar start, arch and end.
- Forgetting regular upkeep: a quick tidy every week or two is easier than reshaping overgrown brows.
For more ways to frame your eyes, see our guides to choosing eyeliner for your eye shape, how to use eyeshadow and makeup tips for your 50s.
What Customers Say
"Best eyebrow and eyeliner pencil with built in sharpener. Very soft pencil and easy to apply."
Helena J., verified customer (Duo Eye & Brow Pencil)
"Best pencil I've used for brows and eye lining."
Sunil L., verified customer (Duo Eye & Brow Pencil)
"Really like the Perfect Brows Hair Remover. So easy to use and great for little touch-ups."
Faye C., Thin Lizzy customer (Perfect Brows)
Read all Duo Eye & Brow Pencil reviews →
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most flattering eyebrow shape?
For most faces, a soft, natural arch that follows your own brow line is the most flattering. Adjust the height and curve to suit your face shape, rather than copying a trend.
How do I know where my eyebrows should start and end?
Use a pencil as a guide. The brow starts in line with the side of your nose, peaks roughly above the centre of your eye and ends on a line from the side of your nose to the outer corner of your eye.
What colour brow pencil should I use?
Choose a shade close to your natural brow colour, or slightly lighter if you have fair or grey hair. Brown suits most people; black is usually best kept for very dark hair or for eyeliner.
How can I make thin brows look fuller?
Fill sparse areas with light, hair-like strokes, brush through with a spoolie and set with a tinted brow gel. Avoid filling in a solid block of colour, which looks flat.
Can I buy Thin Lizzy brow products in stores?
Yes. Thin Lizzy is available at Farmers, Life Pharmacy, Chemist Warehouse and Unichem stores across New Zealand. The range can vary by store, so the easiest way to get the full range, bundles and online deals is to shop online. See our FAQ page for stockist details.
Looking for a deal? Many of our best sellers are available in bundle offers from time to time. See our current Bundle Offers →
Final Thoughts
The perfect brow shape is the one that balances your face and still looks like you. Work out your face shape, map your start, arch and end, tidy gently and fill with soft strokes, and your brows will frame your eyes beautifully.
